| Chapter 1 | Chapter 2 | Chapter 3 | Chapter 4 | Main Page |
A few other temples – Wat Hualamphong, Golden Mount, Wat Khaek, Wat Pra Pathom (May - Jun 2001)
During the time that Erika was with us we managed to get our fill of temples. Still, this city has a huge number of them and we have barely scratched the surface. Basically we have been to the more famous temples and a only couple of unknowns.
Wat Hualumphong while not an unknown in Bangkok is not famous as far as farang as concerned. This temple is located very close to us and we had noticed it when driving past as it is very beautiful, particularly at night when it sparkles due to the numerous bits of mirror adorning the walls. We subsequently heard that this temple is one of the more wealthy ones around.
So, one afternoon we decided to visit. A very very hot afternoon. So hot that the flagstones burnt our feet through our socks as we prepared to enter the temple proper. Inside was pleasant enough, worth viewing but nothing to rave about.
The most interesting experience that we had there was later when we wandered around the temple compound. There was a street vendor selling icecreams and due to the heat we relented and bought icecreams for everyone. We noted that there was some sort of ceremony going on close by and, given that there were quite a few kids dressed up in different clothing, Tim assumed that there may have been a dramatic production of some sort going on. We wandered over, found a table that wasn't currently occupied and sat down.
While the children were all dressed differently, the adults were uniformly in white. There was a lot of food around and the kids were have a great time, running about and shouting with each other. The adults, although quieter were also enjoying themselves. The table at which we sat was off to the side of a three-walled room which was the centre of attention. Rather than having a stage as was expected, the room was decorated by flowers, various personal effects, a giant photo of a middle-aged man and a large box, shaped rather like a casket.
We had basically invited ourselves to a funeral.
An older gentleman came up and offered us some water, which we gratefully accepted (in accordance with correct protocol) and explained that it was the memorial/funeral of one of his family (a brother or nephew). He made us welcome (but only in Thai so that wasn't sufficient for the embarrassed Swedes in our party), even offering us lunch. It was certainly different to a Western funeral. We stayed long enough to drink our water and not appear rude and headed off to our next scheduled stop.
Across the road from Wat Hualumphong, and very difficult to get to because of the lack of facilities for pedestrians, is Bangkok's biggest snake farm. We had decided earlier that because the kids were getting a bit sick of temples, we would try to mix our expeditions up a little - something cultural and then something fun for the kids.
The farm was certainly a hit with Kalle and Taltarni. As we got there a show demonstating how venomous snakes are milked of their venom was being held. We sat down next to a monk (actually Tim and Kalle sat next to the monk, there is a serious prohibition about females touching monks) and watched with interest. Then there was a photo opportunity.
Thailand is not just home to venomous snakes (like cobras and so forth), there are also a number of huge pythons. Perhaps they are not as big as anacondas but they are big enough as to be a worry if you met one in the wild!
Members of the audience were offered the opportunity to hold one of these pythons. Kalle was down there like a shot. He had already asked his aunt if he could have a snake as a Christmas present and after being told that that wasn't going to happen, this was the next best thing. Kalle's expression was priceless when he stood there with a snake slowly wrapping itself tightly around his shoulders and the last coil fell off leading the snake to wrap itself down through his legs and back up the front. Eventually the handler was able to extract Kalle from the mass of twisted python.
Strangely, Taltarni was somewhat less enthusiastic about the prospect.
Later we wandered around the farm looking at various snakes and were treated to feeding time. Kajsa just loved seeing dozens of mice running around!
The first mouse we saw was patently suicidal. We noticed it running along in the cobra pit. We had been walking along trying to count how many cobras we could see. We had come to the realisation that we couldn't count them accurately because of the presence of little houses (pseudo-caves) that were stuffed full of sleeping snakes. Then we saw something white moving down in the pit. The mouse was going on a little walk around the pit and we wondered how long he would survive with so many snakes down there.
He actually lasted a long time, longer than we watched anyway. At one point he clamberer over a snake and then wandered straight into one of the houses containing at least a dozen snakes. This managed to wake one them up and a snake followed the mouse out of the house. Obviously the snakes are well fed because the snake's interest didn't extend to making any real attempt to eat the mouse.
After that we saw that one of the snake handlers was distributing mice to all the cages. One cage in particular had some very efficient snakes, they managed to paralyse all their mice quite quickly and get down to eating them. Other snakes were pretty hopeless and took ages to get their dinner. Perhaps they just waited until their mice were tired. In any event, if you ever have to face a snake, we now know which type you should avoid.
Going back to the topic at hand, we went to one other temple with Erika. This was one of the larger Chinese temples in Yaowarat (China Town), although it actually is on Charoen Krung Road, not Yaowarat Road.
This temple is quite different from a Thai temple. Thai temples tend to be gold in colour while Chinese temples are red. Additionally, in this particular temple there are mostly statues of Chinese gods. Towards the back of the temple there are statues of Chinese style Buddhas but the main focus is on various gods. Another common feature in Chinese temples is the turtle pool.
Chinese temples are not only a place to go to pay respects to gods, Buddha and ancestors but also to seek information about the future. (This feature is sometimes found in Thai style temples as well, such as the Temple of the Golden Buddha, but the Buddha himself was not particularly enthusiastic about fortune telling and monks are prohibited from engaging in it, although that prohibition is sometimes overlooked.) The normal way for getting a reading is really a variation of astrology.
You pick up a tubular container filled with a number of numbered bamboo sticks. Then you kneel in front of whatever statue you think will help you, maybe make and offering, and shake the container. Eventually one of the sticks falls out, sometimes quickly if you are skilled and after a long long time if you are a novice.
The stick will have a number on it and this corresponds to a reading, which has usually been printed on a sheaf of paper in a pigeon hole with the relevant number on it. You take your piece of paper and there are vague comments about love, fortune, health, family, friends and luck, including your lucky numbers.
In some places, this method has been replaced with a machine with spinning lights. You put in your offering, the lights spin around and stop on a number. Sometimes there are a bunch of machines and you have to select the number which matches the day of the week on which you were born. Somehow, it just doesn't seem the same!
The Chinese Temple was very very crowded on that day with far too much incense, and it was very hot again. The kids did well for a while but eventually there was an unpleasant scene and we had to retreat back to the apartment and the swimming pool.
We actually visited Golden Mount alone one Monday morning after we had put the kids on the bus to school. Tim had skillfully arranged to study only in the afternoon on Mondays (and only in the mornings on other days) so we decided to take advantage of the opportunity.
Wat Sakaet or Wat Phu Tong or Golden Mount is the highest point in Bangkok. This is because an artificial hill was built to put the golden spire on. The Wat is worth visiting if only to admire the view.
Below the spire is the actual temple which, unlike all of the temples we had previously visited, was almost totally deserted. The only people we saw while wandering around were monks. We were able to go and sit in the temple and enjoy absolute peace. The inside of this temple was particularly beautiful, with excellent paintings around the walls and a few reasonably sized Buddha statues. What impressed us was that we were able to walk into this place with no hassles and the temple was completely unguarded. The Buddha images would have been worth a fortune and there were numerous other items there that were valuable.
Unlike in Western countries, where it is common to have to lock churches, here in Thailand, despite the poverty, it is still possible to trust the public not to steal items from the temples. (For Westerners thinking, ooh, I know where to get some cheap Buddhas then - Thailand does have quite serious laws about misappropriating religious artifacts.)
We only visited Wat Khaek very briefly. We were there on a mission and unfortunately we weren't able to fulfil that mission. Wat Khaek is an Indian temple, specifically a Hindu temple. It is completely different from both Thai and Chinese temples, with many depictions of animals and mythical beasts incorporated into the structures. There are many alcoves dedicated to various Hindu gods and it was these that we came to see. Kalle and Tim have spent quite some time learning about Greek mythology and wanted to learn more about Hindu mythology (which has been absorbed by the Thais also). Tim had been told that if he wanted a book on Hindu mythology then Wat Khaek was the place to go. Sadly, although we were able to look at the various gods and goddesses, no such book was available.
Markets – Big and not quite so big (May 2001)
Early in the piece we took Erika and the kids to visit the famous Chatachuk Weekend Market. It was a stinking hot day and we were totally overwhelmed.
Chatachuk has almost every you could think of buying. It is situated on a few acres of land to the north of the centre of Bangkok, at the end of the Sky Train, and basically consists of thousands of small stalls. The stalls are set up in various clumps, for want of a better word, with roads separating each of them. Within these clumps are long narrow paths crammed with people and the occasional small cross passageways. The whole area is covered by tarpaulins so that the market resembles a huge rabbit burrow, although on this day it was much much hotter than a rabbit burrow could ever get.
Fortunately, it is possible to buy maps which show you the layout of the market and, even more fortunately we had one before we got to the market (otherwise we would have needed a map to tell us how to get to the part of the market which sells maps). The map also tells you where the little boys and little girls rooms are, very important in Thailand when you are still adjusting to the change in diet! Out first half an hour or so in the market was spent trying to make our way to the conveniences, during which time we managed to get disoriented a few times, despite the map.
We sighted a few enclosed, air-conditioned, restaurants and therefore spent the next hour eating lunch. Finally, after that, we braved the market itself. Using the map we were able to make our way to the section of the market that sold religious artifacts and other decorative knick-knacks (from memory this was because Erika had interest in buying something like that).
It is worth pointing out Thailand has a very geographical way of selling goods that is rather unlike Australia and Sweden. If you want to buy something specific from Chatachuk Market or from a shop other than a big department store or supermarket, then you have to know where to go. It is pointless deciding to just wander around and hoping to come across what you want. Chatachuk is split into specific areas, there is a greenery area which sells plants only, there is an area that sells books and nothing but books, then there are specific areas dedicated to kites, animals, electronics, food, woodwork items, clothes, shoes, bags and so on.
If you get to one of these areas then you will find that there is a very limited range of items available, if you aren't after a kite or shoes, then you might find that you have to walk across the market to find whatever you are after. You certainly don't want to go there with a huge list of things to buy otherwise you will be traipsing around for hours!
This geographical demarcation is not limited to Chatachuk. As you drive around Bangkok you slowly (or quickly depending on the keenness of your observation) come to realise that there are certain places for certain things. Where do you go for CDs? Mah Boon Krong (MBK - 4th Floor). Software? Panthip Plaza or Fortune City. Gold? Yaowarat or MBK (3rd Floor). Car parts? Certain streets in Krung Rattanakosin are devoted to nothing but. In fact, Krung Rattankosin, which is the old city, seems to be best divided into areas that sell car parts, areas that sell wood, areas that sell bicycles and motorbikes, areas that sell tyres, areas that sell car batteries (rows of shops selling nothing but car batteries - very bizarre) and, strangely, areas that sell hoses. There are also areas entirely devoted to other items but you get the idea.
If you wanted to buy a motorbike, a helmet (another area), a new steering wheel and a spare set of tyres plus get a piece of wood to protect yourself from the marauding packs of dogs you would have to set aside at least a day to get it all done, especially with the traffic and the need to check prices and so on. Thankfully there are also a few big department stores within easy driving distance so we tend to pay for convenience.
We have visited a few other markets, the most outstanding of which is Pak Khlong Talat (the market at the mouth of the khlong) which is also known as the flower market. It is not just a flower market though. There are certainly lots and lots of flowers, sold in bulk at incredibly low prices (a bunch of 20 roses for $2), but there are also stall dedicated to fruit and vegetables which are very fresh having just been offload from barges coming down the Chao Praya River. We spent a few hours there shopping for food before Som started working for us. We ended up with so much stuff and couldn't believe how little we spent on it all.
Unfortunately, the kids didn't fully enjoy the experience. While we are told quite firmly that Thai people do not like to be touched, this prohibition does not apply to children, especially blond farang children. For the most part, prior to going to this market, we had been to places where foreigners were common and the sight of Kalle and Taltarni didn't cause much of a stir. For some reason Pak Khlong Talat doesn't seem to get as many tourists. When we walked around there was plenty of comment about the fact that there were farang visiting and Kalle and Taltarni had people touching them or their hair every few metres. Kalle got sick of it very quickly, Taltarni liked the attention at first but eventually got tired of it as well.
This is a common complaint of Western children living in Thailand. They are often touched by Thais walking past. It is easy to understand how annoying that can be and Tim tried various verbal methods to try to stop people from touching Kalle in particular but often just couldn't spit out a polite "Please don't touch the children, they don't like it" in time before they had already been touched. Now Tim just barks "Don't touch" rudely and follows it up with an explanation.
The closest market to our home is a short walk away and is set in the grounds of the Thai Navy married quarters compound (which closely resembles blocks of housing commission high-rise flats). This market, which is only open on Saturdays, is small and has a range of goods for sale, including plants, fish, clothes, household items, food and even CDs. The first time we went there we were quite late and everything was starting to close down. The kids were fascinated by the fish and somewhat less interested in everything else.
After wandering around for a while, we decided to get something to eat at one of the temporary restaurants. Tim had an interesting conversation with the owners who seemed very concerned that the food would be too spicy for farang (it was hot but not too bad). Enventually though, we were able to get some food appropriate for the kids and adults and sat down to eat. Just about then, Kalle and Taltarni noticed movement on the other side of the small waterway (it is a rash assumption to make but we are pretty sure that it is water there, underneath the surface slime, otherwise take it for read that "waterway" actually means "slimeway").
"Wow, did you see that?" - What?
"A rat, a really really big rat!"
Kajsa had her back to where the rat was and wasn't moving her head to look. In fact she didn't seem to be moving any part of her body. She didn't speak, not even to say that she hates rats and mice. Tim thought he might try to play down the incident.
- It's not that big. "Oh, yes it was. It was really, really big! It was about thiiiiiis big."
- Eat your dinner, Kalle.
Then Taltarni pipes up. "I saw it too. It was really, really big." - You eat your dinner too, Taltarni.
(For those rodentiaphobes among you, be assured that while there are rats, Bangkok is not riddled with them like some more so-called "civilised" cities. Some American cities have some major problems with rats due to cut-backs in rodent control. We have seen rats in Sydney and the cats certainly brought a few mice home after their more successful forays. So, while you can see rats a little more frequently here in Thailand, it doesn't necessarily mean that there are more of them - and what you see you can avoid!)
What can we say about opening drinks. We had drinks and we were welcomed in the bar downstairs in the compound. We drank a few welcoming champagnes, ate come welcoming sausages and chatted with some of the welcoming people. Like any little get together of people who live and work together. There were no wild scenes, not even spontaneous skinny dipping (which was quite welcome given some of the bodies around!)
Later in the evening, when we had more than had our fill of champagne, we wandered up the road to visit Wong's, a little bar with a very long history. It is a place where you walk in, find a seat then wander up to the fridge and take out what you want. Sometimes Wong will come up and say hello (speaking perfect English, ie Australian English!) When the night is over he has two ways of working out how much you owe. If you have been there a short time he just counts the empties. If you have been there a long time he counts what is left in the fridge and works things out that way. A charming little place and apparently quite popular with the Embassy crowd.